On one seriously soggy July (because this is the UK and we don't have summers unless there's a global pandemic) I decided to nip by this quirky but dilapidated drinking hole known as the Dulais Rock. Pubs aren't exactly my favourite kind of urbex spots, unless of course I have personal nostalgia associated with the place, but it really was bucketing it down, and my plans in the area had been rather weather dependent, so had flopped faster than Prince Andrew at an 18th Birthday party.
I was determined to get some kind of adventure out of the day, so soaking wet as I was, I made my way here.
Although I wasn't particularly optimistic about the amount of shelter I'd get from this place.
As far as pubs go, it does have a unique design, with its cute side balconies, and a frontage giving me dog-face pareidolia. It dates all the way back to the far flung year of 1658, and that is pretty incredible.
(Photo credit: Stephen Roberts)
Here's how it used to look, back in its glory days. A keen eye might notice the old AA symbol on the road sign.
But wait! We can turn the clock back further for even more bonkers revelations!
(Photo not mine, obviously)
The pub had a moat! How cool is that????
Who the hell had the idea of removing this in favour of a carpark? Isn't that what happened to Hitlers bunker in Berlin, because they wanted the area to be as unremarkable as possible? What kind of monster would give the Hitler treatment to a pub moat? Shame on you!
Despite the changes, it's hard not to be impressed by the history here. When Queen Victoria was born, this building was here and already old. When King George was born, this was here. When Queen freakin' Mary was born, this was here, just about.
According to rumour, Oliver Cromwell also stayed here, hiding in the Priest Holes during the Civil War. One of the seats allegedly even had a metal plate stating that he had sat on it. But this rumour is easily crushed because Oliver Cromwell died in 1658, the same year that the pub was built. Maybe he took the time out of his life to play hide & seek in here really quick before getting back to his busy schedule of suffering from malaria and sepsis. But even then, it wasn't even a pub.
Back in 1658 the Dulais Rock was apparently a servants quarters for a nearby mill, the remnants of which still exist as a National Trust property, featuring a pretty nice walk to a small waterfall. It's entirely possible that this building was also a mill. In 1722, John Llewelyn claimed that "some years ago" he had rented out some land near the old mill for the construction of a new one for grinding wheat. This "new mill" is commonly believed to be the Dulais Rock.
It probably wasn't called the Dulais Rock straight away, but that is just a hunch. This may surprise people but most British pub names (red lion, golden cross, nags head, etc) originate from a time when literacy was lower. These names were pictures. The words came later. I have no proof that the Dulais Rock was ever named anything else though. The name shows up on Victorian maps and stuff. It's just something that wouldn't surprise me if it was true.
Slipping inside is pretty simple. The place is barely holding together. A well-timed fart will bring it crashing down.
I say that a lot about wrecked buildings. I wonder how many times I've avoided death by not having beans with my breakfast.
I actually managed to find an older shot, pre closure, that shows this area, albeit from a different angle.
(image not mine, obviously)
It's pretty bonkers. The two framed pictures from my photo are in the exact same place.
Alas, the pub is a little too wrecked. A collapsing ceiling has completely taken out the bar. Someone once said "last orders" and didn't realise how right they were.
There's some bunting here for someone's eighteenth birthday.
There was once a sign above the fireplace that had allegedly been there since 1658 but has since been yoinked. It contained the "rules of the tavern," and it said "Four pence a night for a bed, two pence for horse keeping, No more than five to sleep in one bed, no boots to be worn in bed, no razor grinders to be taken in, no dogs allowed in the kitchen, and organ grinders are to sleep in the wash house."
It's a shame it's gone, and I can only hope it's been taken legitimately and is in the hands of the owner.
If anything the sign provided a fascinating insight into culture in the 1600s. I'm quite intrigued by the fact that five people would share a bed, but also that the street musicians (referred to as organ grinders) weren't allowed an actual bedroom.
Here in the doorway we can see the huge pile of rubble that encompasses the other half of the building. The corrugated iron on the floor was, I assume, once on the roof as a temporary attempt to keep out the elements.
It's not the most exciting place in the world, from an urbex perspective, but just take a moment to consider how many people have drank here over the centuries. Generations upon generations of memories have happened within these soggy crumbling walls. That's pretty incredible.
There is a grizzly rumour associated with the pub. Allegedly back when the mill was active, someone delivering metal had a fling with the landlords daughter and she became pregnant. Her father disapproved and she hanged herself in the bar area. She is said to still haunt the pub.
But I've been unable to verify the story of her suicide. It could be bollocks. But it certainly could be possible. There was a time when unmarried pregnancies were a huge taboo.
But the pub is still remembered as a jolly place to be. Sometimes bands would play here, and it had its own skittles alley around the back. It also hosted a clay pigeon shooting group, and there's a group on Facebook dedicated entirely to showcasing the songs that used to be on the pubs jukebox. People remember it fondly. Even the pubs name, Dulais Rock, has been taken on as the name of a local ladies bowls club.
Some reasonably famous names have drank in these walls too. The artist J M W Turner has been here. He painted the waterfall and the mill in 1796, as did John Ruskin in the Victorian era.
They aren't as big as Oliver Cromwell, but hey-ho.
Now onto the best part of any abandoned building, the toilets!
Still in better condition than the toilets in some active pubs and clubs.
My favourite part of the pub was downstairs!
But with the building so precarious, surely only a fool would go down here.
Well here I am. I was once again able to match this shot with an older one from when the pub was open. The angle isn't the same but that picture is still hanging on the wall.
(image not mine, obviously)
According to an article from 2004, this downstairs seating area was created during a renovation, which claimed to be restoring the Dulais Rock to its "former glory." This is still a few years before its subsequent abandonment and so it's largely indicative of a succession of closures and re-openings. These renovations turned the Dulais Rock into a fancy restaurant and offered three hotel bedrooms. An advert in the papers also boasted that the skittle alley had been refurbished and was ready for party bookings.
Perhaps not surprisingly, loads of people claim that the pub is haunted.
One of the more... interesting arguments in support of this is that "nobody would abandon so many things." They say that the owners clearly left in a hurry.
This is easily debunkable because the owner himself is still around to testify. It's also quite silly because nobody is THAT afraid of ghosts. This sort of scenario evokes scenes from Casper. In the real world, nobody abandons their home and all of their possessions due to translucent flying condoms. Real life isn't like the movies.
But contrary to how I come across with my incessant mockery of "PaRaNoRmAl InVeStIgAtIoNs" in urbex, I am actually open to the supernatural. I have personally experienced some strange things in my life that I can't explain. But I don't think the paranormal occurs often enough to support as many youtube channels as it does, and even Ghostbusters knew that in order to get any ounce of plausibility, the characters would need scientific backgrounds. The movie with a giant marshmallow man knew that, so I'm not about to blindly believe Kev the Youtuber who failed GCSE English, and has a beeping thing that he got off the internet for £11.19, let's be honest.
Proof of the afterlife would be the greatest scientific breakthrough in human history. If this stuff did happen with enough regularity that all you needed to prove it was Amazon Prime, then scientists would be on it. It would be scientifically observable. Ectoplasm would be on the periodic table. And someone else, not a youtuber, would be raking in the dosh.
Having said that, I'm certainly open to people's lived experience. If someone says they lived here and some unexplainable stuff happened, then that is worth listening to, because they aren't getting anything from sharing the story. Youtubers, on the other hand, have an agenda. They want clicks and they want that ad revenue, and they'll have you believing every gust of wind is a poltergeist if it means you'll watch.
A family that moved in around 1993 claim that they were always being watched here, and experienced quite a lot of weird stuff, like rearranged furniture and the occasional voice. They claim to still have nightmares about this place. Subsequent occupants have claimed to hear footsteps on the stairs when nobody was present.
But that doesn't really make for good youtube content since stuff like that tends to occur exactly when you aren't looking for it. But I'm talking to a wall. I'm not going to bring down an entire video genre with one blog. If I thought I could do that, I'd teach men how to handle rejection, and topple the True Crime Genre.
Suffice it to say, I encountered nothing supernatural here. The only thing I can't explain is how it's still standing.
Here we have the back room, which seems to be the least collapsed part of the entire building, albeit barely. .
There's a little door here that leads to another room.
This one is mostly collapsed but it's still possible to make out this tiny fireplace.
And it's possible to get to the kitchen through here.
Various reviews from 2006 to 2008 tell of how the food served here was very nice, and also how the fact that it only had three bedrooms made the stay here exceptionally peaceful.
Alas, the pub closed in 2009. The council say that is closed due to "market forces," but some of the locals have said that the owners at the time raised the prices and made some unpopular changes.
And really I think that's a lesson for pub owners. Locals will stay loyal to a pub because they love the vibe. Sure, many people aren't that fussy, but your regulars, the locals, will always value the vibe as much they value the drinks. If you make changes to that vibe, you lose the regulars.
The most recent owner did purchase the pub with the intent on restoring it. He says that the pub was intact when he first got it, but it had stuff missing. He spent £350,000 on refurbishment, but then someone stole the slate from the roof. He phoned the insurance company, they sent assessors around, and then withdrew insurance. With the slate gone from the roof, the elements got in and it was all downhill from there.
The poor guy then had a succession of break ins, and there was often vandalism and theft. He had a camera room to film such intrusions, but they broke into that and tossed the VCR into the river.
He says that someone doesn't want him to open the pub, eluding to some conspiracy.
But as an urbexer I know differently. See, it must be Hell to have property that has been closed and caught the attention of the urbex herd. Because many of them will travel across the country to see a place, and they will stop at nothing to get in, because they want that social media content. If that means destroying security cameras and breaking locks, they'll do it. They'll even livestream it. I see it all the time. Home owners contact urbex groups to say "Hey, stop breaking into my dead nans house please," and they're met with mockery.
That's not to generalise all urbexers. After all, I am one. But it's a myth that urban exploring is done entirely by curious photographers who love history, taking nothing but photos and leaving nothing but footprints. Granted, it's really only the social media clout-chasing types that exchange their morals for dopamine and followers, and they are largely met with disapproval from urbexers with a more genuine love for the hobby. But there is a lot of them.
And that's kinda why I don't feel shame for conveying my adventures through blog form in an era where barely anyone likes read. This is what I enjoy doing. People tell me I'll never be huge on social media, and that's okay. The people with loads of followers are the ones who will do absolutely anything to get them. Popularity is not worth my integrity.
The value I get from urbex, from the adventure itself, the image capturing, the research right down to the write-up, comes entirely from my enjoyment of it. And that can be applied to any hobby, whether that's performing music to an audience or staying at home to build little ships inside bottles. Your enjoyment of it is what makes it worthwhile, first and foremost.
Of course, this logic only applies to passions that hurt nobody. If you're passionate about hurting people then you belong somewhere on a scale of therapy to jail. But that's not the point I'm making.
Lastly we have a couple of menus here, although my camera was having focusing issues. Still, it's a miracle that these things have survived. But they are soaking wet and any attempt at moving them will destroy them.
And that's all I've got!
In all honesty, I enjoyed this more than I thought I would. Sure, on the surface the Dulais Rock is just a soggy derelict pub waiting for a gust of wind to reduce it to a pile of bricks, but as I researched it I grew to appreciate the history, and I share the sadness of the former customers that this drinking hole is probably gone for good. If only I could go back in time.
For the Dulais Rock, it really is the end of an era. As much as I would love to see such an ancient pub brought back to life, it's going to take some deep pockets to make it happen. And this really needs to be a passion project. Someone needs to actually care about restoring it to what it once was.
My next blog will be an old summer camp with loads of history, and I'm really looking forward to it.
In the meantime, the best way to stay updated with my blogs are through my social media, albeit begrudgingly.
I'm on Facebook. I don't know what's going on with the algorithm there but I think it only shows people stuff that it knows they will hate. I don't see any of my friends posts anymore. Just "recommended" posts with World War Three through Seven in the comments. Its the most toxic platform at the moment, by far.
I don't know if that's just the only type of person left on Facebook, but if I look at the comments of pretty much EVERY post that I come across, nobody likes anything they're seeing. Everyone's arguing. I don't really understand why people are using an app that ruins their day, and I honestly worry what people are doing behind the scenes with the algorithm that makes it exclusively show people stuff that makes them so mad that they start fighting with strangers.
I think the problem is a bit of both. It's both the algorithm, and the fact that those are the only people still using Facebook. The most bitter, humourless creatures on Earth are just congregating on Facebook, and Facebook is catering to them for engagement. It's worse than Twitter. I don't say that lightly either. I mean, there are extremely racist, horrific people on Twitter, but even they are cheerier company than the people on Facebook. Granted, their cheeriness usually comes at the expense of their least favourite race, and I don't agree with it, but they are at least smiling! People on Facebook aren't even necessarily racist. They just hate everything. They've made up their mind that they want to argue with someone, so they go on Facebook, and the algorithm is like "here's something to moan about."
So anyway, enough ranting. I am on Facebook and Twitter, and Instagram too. But I really want to get back to the old days where people followed people because they wanted to see their content. Cara and Vero are Instagram alternatives for photography and art, without reels or stupid algorithms. You see who you follow, and I think that's great, so I am there. I'm also on Blue Sky, which seems pretty cool.
Find me on these places so that we can ditch the algorithmic hellscapes.
Thanks for reading!