Thursday, November 7, 2024

Boat Cemetery


While I was traveling across France, I had maybe twenty minutes before the last bus out to my next destination, and I was fucking thirsty. So I checked Google Maps to see if I could find a Nettos or something, and instead spotted the words "Cimetière à bateau" nearby.
Boat cemetery! 
Screw hydration and ensuring that my physical body doesn't shrivel up and die. We're going there instead!

Granted, there was a time limit. I wouldn't be able to climb on all the boats and pretend I'm a pirate, but I could afford a quick mooch. I absolutely love the accidental adventures. I had a whole bunch of planned stuff to see in France, but the accidental discoveries just hit differently.

The port here is still in commercial use, and you'll see plenty of non-abandoned boats sailing by in the background, but all the nooks and crannies of the cove are used by fishermen to beach their old trawlers. When a boat is no longer fit for purpose, it's taken here to sit out the rest of its days.


The boat cemetery is sort of regarded as a museum by locals, having some pretty old fishing trawlers, dating back over numerous generations.
 
Some might look at this and see it as a massive fly-tip smeared across nature, ruining the scenery and harming the environment. The arguments have been argued. Points have been bludgeoned to death. But the thing is, for these towns with a strong fishing history, places like this are revered. It's a tribute to the labour of the people who worked on these boats far away from civilisation for long periods of time just to provide for their community. It's regarded as a memorial of sorts. The concept of a boat cemetery is a matter of tradition
That's not to say it's necessarily good for the environment. Tradition doesn't always equate good. But it is tough to get people to budge on this sort of thing.

 
I did manage to identify some of the boats and dig up their backstories. The blue and white one is called "Saint Quido," named after an ancient French hermit monk. I have conflicting sources of its creation, some saying 1965, and others saying 1981, but it was abandoned here in 2007. 
And because the internet is a rather spiffing tool when it's not being used as the toilet cubicle wall of the modern world, I have found some photos of it before it was abandoned!
 
(Photo not mine, obviously)
 
(Photo not mine, obviously)
 

 Other boats are a little harder to identify.


This gorgeous little boat is The Sea Elf, an 18 metre tuna trawler that was built right here in this town in 1964. It had a good life, traveling about kidnapping fish before returning here in 1994. A lack of maintenance led to it becoming unfit for purpose, and it was abandoned here in 2007. 
 

 
What broke my heart about the Sea Elf is it's totally possible to climb up onto it. But alas, I didn't have the time for any scrambling. I was just passing by. I had to keep this brief, or else I would miss my ride out of here. I begrudgingly turned away the temptation and promised myself I would make it up with something epic later on. 
 


 
Well at least I can get on this one without any effort. It's not much to look at, but this just adds to the intrigue. Some boats have been here for so long that they've completely wasted away.
 

 
This one is called The Kermoor. It's 15 metres long and was built in France in 1959. As a rather interesting factoid, the original owner, Jacques Le Derout, was lost at sea in 1976, at the age of 39. But then quite a few of these old boats have probably had owners and crew members perish in the same way. This just happens to be the one mentioned on the internet.
 
I have managed to find a photo of it when it was still in use!

(Photo not mine, obviously)

The Kermoor came to this town in 1991 but can't have been too run down at the time because it was dragged out of retirement in 1995 to be used in a movie.

(Screenshot from Elisa)
 
The movie "Elisa" is about a woman who lives a life of crime and tries to assassinate her father for abandoning her family, but then finds out that he only abandoned the family because his wife was a prostitute. It sounds pretty interesting, and I'm always down for watching something that isn't the same formulaic garbage spewed forth into the world by Hollywood. Some of my favourite films are from Europe and Asia.
 



 
I have found a few more names of some of the boats here, but alas, I have no way of determining which boats they belong to. But somewhere among these wrecks is the Tom Souville, a boat that was built in France in 1952, and had a harpoon launcher for hunting sharks. And then, even more surprisingly is the Katie Ann, a Welsh trawler that was built in Swansea in 1921. 
 
And that just blows my mind a bit. The reason why some of them look like they've walked out of a Michael Bay movie is because they're positively ancient! The Katie Ann, wherever it is, is a century old, and perhaps so are more of these wrecks. People have been dumping boats here for decades, and regardless of whether you see a memorial paying homage to the fishing industry, or a great big bin ruining an otherwise picturesque part of the world, I can't help but find it kinda cool. 
 
 
 
The last ship is a short trek away. This is "The Janine."
 
 
The Janine was built in 1957 and was named after the owners wife. It was primarily used to fish for lobsters in Morocco and Portugal. 
 
It was sold in 1972 and again in 1995, before being abandoned and left to decay in 2003. But its story didn't end there! It was purchased in 2004, with the aim of restoring it, but it seemingly ended up more of a decoration in 2007, being listed as a historic monument at some point before losing that status and being dragged here in October 2011. 

And there are plenty of photos of it on the internet.
 
(Photo not mine, obviously) 
 
(Photo not mine, obviously)
 
(Photo not mine, obviously)

Here it is on display in 2007.
 

 
It still has its little propeller thing that exemplifies why I love doing urbex in other countries. If this was in the UK, this would have been yoinked for scrap long ago by some guy who looks like a Jeremy Kyle guest. In Europe there's just a lot more respect for these things.
 

 And that's all I've got from the Boat Cemetery. Alas, there are plenty of other boats around that area that I missed, but I saw the majority of them. I just wish I'd had enough time to scramble all over them, but I had to run and catch a bus to the next stretch of my adventure. And I really can't wait to show my next spot in France. But first, I need to spew forth a tirade of photos of abandoned houses on the local blog

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Opinions are like nipples. Everyone has them. Some make a good point. Zuckerberg wants the best ones to stay hidden. 
 
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Monday, October 7, 2024

The Blue House

 
This tiny little house is situated on top of a great big hill somewhere in Wales, far from anywhere, and it is fucking adorable and well worth the trek. Ordinarily it takes a lot to get me excited about a house. I think they've just got a bit of a bad name from the breed of urbexer that prioritises pristine barely-abandoned and fully furnished so-called time capsules from the far-flung era of 2021, that they nip into while the owners funeral is just about wrapping up. I'm not about that. I mean, what's the point? Now this is a good house, purely because it's ancient, it's gorgeous, there's nothing at all modern in it, and when I dug into the history I discovered that the same family had occupied it for over a century. If walls could talk, these ones would tell you about the occupants from cradle to the grave, over multiple generations.

Alas, walls can't talk. But I can, at great length, whether you want me to or not. So let's slip inside this gorgeous little ruin!
 

 Given the age of the place, I'm absolutely blown away by what's left behind, and the condition it's in. There's no vandalism here. Granted, there's too little for this to be considered fully-furnished, but there is enough to give us a real vibe of stepping back in time. The decay is entirely natural. It really does seem like the owners packed up one day, left a few bits behind, and then never came back.
 

Initially I was a bit stumped. The 1841 census listed the occupants as the "Peters family." Living here was 62-year-old Peter Peters, with his slightly younger wife Margaret, and their adult children William, 31, and Dorothy, 21. 
 
And I thought at first that the Peters must have lived here prior to the Pierce family, because all my other evidence was pointing towards them occupying this house for four generations. 
But nobody in the Peters family had any birth records, so I was scratching my head for a bit until I realised that the ages of Peter Peters, his wife Margaret, their son William and their daughter Dorothy perfectly match the birth records of Peter Pierce, his wife Margaret, their son William and their daughter Dorothy. I'm an idiot. How did I miss that for so long?
Evidently whoever scrawled the 1841 census made a booboo and wrote "Peter" twice instead of "Pierce."
 

 Next to these books is a record sleeve for Jascha Heifetz, a famous violinist who was popular in the 1920s and 1930s.
 

Peter Pierce was born in 1779, and he married Margaret in January 1798. In August 1798 their first daughter Jane was born in Margaret's family home, which is curious. Peter was just nineteen and Margaret only eighteen. And if we look at the dates, it would seem that these were teenage lovers, and when Margaret got pregnant, Peter immediately married her in order to make the situation "proper" in the eyes of society. But Margaret did still live with her parents, and seemingly unable to provide, Peter also moved in. Margaret was also the eldest of seven children, which meant with her new hubbie and newborn, the harmony of that household must have been significantly strained.

This inconvenience didn't stop the newlyweds from bumping uglies though, and soon little John entered the world in 1805, at which point Peter and Margaret decided to move out of her parents house and get their own place. It wasn't this place, but we're getting there.
At their new home, they had a multitude of additional semen demons. Peter Jr joined the family in 1807, followed by William in 1807, and Richard in 1813. But for whatever reason, that house wasn't sufficient, and it may have had something to do with Jane. Poor Jane died in 1817, at the age of nineteen. I don't know how, because my data lacks context, but at that point the family came here. And then they had more babies!


So Thomas was born in this house in 1816, followed by Dorothy in 1819, George in 1822, Isaac in 1824 and Benjamin in 1826.
That's a lot of children for such a tiny living space, but this was unfortunately very common back in the day, because the child life expectancy was so low. Families would have hordes of children crammed into tiny houses, hardly helping the quality of life, and perhaps adding to the squalor that caused so much sickness and child death. It was a vicious circle, incredibly common, and this place was no exception. Little Benjamin didn't make it through his first year on the planet, and little Isaac would die here at the age of three. Richard also died here in 1831 at the age of 18. So of their ten children, four are dead. It's pretty sad.
 
But this is really another reason why I'm developing a soft spot for houses like this. The family history, along with the frankly measly size of the house, all shines a light on the abysmal quality of life for the working class in Georgian and Victorian Britain. And I think we need that, because history only really focuses on the rich and the prominent. The average folk often get consigned to the background as faceless crowd who just happened to be there.
 

Of the surviving Pierce children, John got married in 1832 and was the first to leave the nest, becoming a farm labourer elsewhere. Thomas married a few years later, and went on to become a butler at a fancy house.
 
So on the 1841 census, Peter and Margaret were still living here in their sixties with two adult children, William and Dorothy. Only Peter Jr and George are unaccounted for. Presumably they had also moved out and were doing their own thing. Dorothy would do the same in 1847 when she got married, ending up as a farmers wife and mother of her own little brood.
 
 
This room is by far my favourite. It is from this room that the house gets its rather simplistic nickname, the "blue house." But we're not here to mock urbex nicknames today. Nobody born East of the border can pronounce this places actual name anyway. But the blue room here is absolutely gorgeous. There's enough left behind to give it character, but enough decay to make it delightfully eerie.
 

The painting of a girl praying is one of those images intended to look wholesome but kinda looks creepy.
 

On the 1851 census, Peter is listed as a 72-year-old farmer of 37 acres, with two people employed as his labourers. His wife is still by his side but William and Dorothy have fucked off. Instead, Peter's tenth child, George, has returned to the house to work on the family farm, and with him is a fourteen-year-old servant girl named Anne, which indicates that old Peter and Margaret are now in declining health and need a little extra help. 
And indeed, Peter would pass away in this house that very same year. 

Inheriting the farm, George married a woman named Margaret in 1853. The name repetition might get awkward, and to make matters worse, they had a daughter in 1856 who they named Dorothy. 

Peters widow, the original Margaret, would then pass away in 1859. It's actually quite a happy love story. These two teenage lovers spent their entire lives together and made a life for themselves right here, and bore numerous children. It's a story wracked with sadness as they lost child after child. but they always had each other, almost right to the end. 
And this house, which once had their entire family crammed into it, now became the home of George and his own little family. 
 

Photos of this family are still dotted around, albeit unlabeled. I don't know who these people are, but given the age of the images, I do wonder if the man on the wall is old Peter Pierce himself. 
The boy on the table is anyone's guess.
 
 
Now the big cheese of the farm, George fathered more children, albeit never as many as his parents. Mary was born in 1859, followed by Margaret in 1863, and then Peter in 1867, presumably named after George's deceased father, although George's brother Peter had also passed away the year before, so he could have been named after him. But they were now a family of six, and this is reflected on the 1871 census, along with a 26-year-old farm servant named Thomas who is said to be George's nephew.
 
But alas, the family may not have reached the same colossal size as the generation that preceded it, but it did have its fair share of bad luck when little Dorothy died in 1879 at the age of 22.


And here we have numerous photos of the family, but no context or information on who anyone is. It's lovely but simultaneously infuriating.
 

 Over on the side here is a birthday card which reads "From Mam, To Mrs Pierce with the best of wishes."
And right away I'm breathing a sigh of relief. This means my research is verified! The problem that I have with Wales is that place names often get repeated, because they all translate to simple descriptive phrases like "Top of the hill," or "bridge over the river," and this is because centuries ago Wales was predominantly rural with scattered communities and no motorised transport. Old Mr Evans, living at "Village by the bridge" in the 1300s, isn't worried that there's another "Village by the bridge" some 20km away. That's completely irrelevant information to him. It doesn't factor into his world. So my point is, when researching Welsh places, it's entirely possible that I end up researching the wrong damn place because of name repetition. I'm very much relieved to be proven right.

But let's examine this card. It's to "Mrs Pierce," from her mother. Now why would a mother address her own daughter as "Mrs Pierce?" 
I think maybe the emphasis is put on her being Mrs Pierce because she's recently married into the family, and this is the mother expressing that she's happy for her newly wed daughter by addressing her by her new name.
 

There are wedding photos nearby, but it's impossible to know who this could be.

On the 1881 census, George is listed as a farmer of 45 acres, meaning he has obtained additional land. His daughter Margaret, only seventeen, has got a job as a housekeeper so she's elsewhere. She would get married and move to Runcorn eventually. But the remaining children, Mary and Peter, are still here. Mary would pass away in 1882 at the age of 23.
 
Little Peter would marry a woman named Catherine in 1899, a woman who is curiously listed as the farms housekeeper, which is interesting. Evidently Peter fell for his own employee, which would have been rather scandalous back then. In 1900 they would have a daughter named Mary, presumably named after Peters departed sister, and then a son in 1901, who they named George after the elderly head of the household. 
In 1901 there was also a 14-year-old boy named David working here as a servant.
 

Here we have a postcard from 1947, which is considerably later down the timeline but still old enough to be awesome.
 

 And this little note from the Jones family is informing them of a change of address in 1964!
 

 There's a book here, but the writing on the front is faded.
 

 It's an old finance book, with entries dated 1944 and 1946. This is incredible! But the names at the top are the Davies family, which threw me off a bit. The first name scrawled at the top is "John William Davies," and I'm pretty sure this is Catherine's nephew. Catherine's sister Jane married into the Davies family, and she had a son called John. I'm not sure what his middle name was, but given that "Williams" was Catherine and Jane's maiden name, it does make sense that they'd carry it forward. We see plenty of name repetition in these old families, and it's not uncommon for women to keep their maiden names in continuity seeing as they'd lose them. John Davies lived from 1911 to 1996, so he'd totally be an adult and farming in the 1940s. The dates add up.

I'm not entirely sure why his paperwork is here, in his aunties house, but at least there is a family connection.
 

 The dates in the book continue into the 1950s.
 

 This room is similarly cute, but doesn't quite have the same personal touch as the other room.
 

So Peter and Catherine had a son named Joseph in 1903, and another son named Hugh in 1906. Peter's father George would also pass away in 1906, meaning it was Peter and Catherine spearheading the farm into the 20th Century. But interestingly, despite living elsewhere, Peters uncle Thomas, the one who became a butler, is said to have died in this house too in 1906, at the age of ninety. Perhaps he returned when his health was failing. 

The 1911 census is particularly quaint because it's in Welsh, listing Peters occupation as "ffarmwr," for Farmer, and having "Ysgol" next to little Mary's name to indicate that she's in school. Also mentioned are her younger brothers, George, Joseph and Hugh, and also a fifteen-year-old domestic named Maggie. 
And then in 1915 they had one more child, Edward, which is quite impressive given that Peter was now 48 and Catherine was 39.  
Peter would die in this house in 1932, at which point Catherine became head of the household.
 


Additional documents from the 1930s are similarly in Welsh, and also in cursive, which makes it doubly difficult to decipher, but I gave it a go. In 1939 the head of the household is Catherine, whose occupation is "ffermwraif," meaning "Farm Woman." Two of her children, Mary and George, have gone on to have their own families, but Joseph, Hugh and Edward are still here. Josephs occupation is "gertiwr," meaning "carter" and Hugh is listed as "Gwarthegydd" meaning Cattle Man. So they've each got their little role on the farm. Edwards entry is interesting. It's hard to tell with Welsh cursive, because it looks like a spider with diarrhea  crawled across the page, but it looks like it says "Llafwrwr armaethydd," meaning "Army labourer." It looks like little Edwards off to fight the Nazis.


 Here's an old milk label.
 
 
And there's an old photo showing a young woman. She may well have drank from the same mug that I'm using to prop up the photo.

Moving on outside...
 

 There are a few old-buildings that were used by the farm, and they're all fairly ruinous now, but marvelously photogenic in their decay.
 

 So with the elderly widowed Catherine being the head of the household, it kinda makes sense that her side of the family would get involved as she got older, explaining why her nephews name is among the paperwork. She passed away in 1965, and her son Hugh is seemingly the last child to live here, passing away in 1971 at the age of 64. His siblings, all with families of their own, would pass away elsewhere and this house was left empty.




 The most intact storage building is this little workshop full of tools.
 

 This is an old sharpening wheel.
 


 It does kinda have serial killer vibes when there's big pointy things hanging from the ceiling.  Honestly it's amazing that none of this has been stolen. One day Hugh Pierce hung this up for the last time, and it's been there since 1971.
 




 It's so cool to think that this house has seen four generations of the same family. Numerous people have grown up here. Many people have died here, in the same house that their parents and grandparents were born and died, and it all started with a teenage romance in 1798. And little did they know, their story would get repeated two centuries and-a-bit later on technology they'd never even fathom. And they were just ordinary farmers. It could happen to any of us, just because there are weirdos out there with autism and bonkers hobbies. The world is mad.
 

And that's all I've got! I absolutely love this place. While the years of cringe that I've been subjected to through various urbex groups have left me unenthusiastic about houses, there's no denying that this one is a pretty cool one. It ticks my house boxes. It's ancient, it's decayed entirely naturally, it's got a story, and it's got some cool things left behind to enjoy. Why go to some pristine barely-abandoned thing and make a big fuss about the fact that it still has power, when you could go to a place like this and experience genuine history? 
I love this place. I want to find more like this.

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